Порядок замены масла из http://www.geocities.com/yyz81/cd4e/maintaince.html
General maintaince of the CD4E is very simple. Have the tranny flushed every 30,000 miles. You can take your car to most full service lube shops to have this service done, but others do this themselves. Only real difference is that a lube shop would be able to perform a power flush, which can force contaminates out of the system. Some simple drain and fill the unit every 15,000, but others feel that this process really does not do enough good to justify. Opinions vary, so do what you think is best.
By drain and fill, I mean you jack the front of the car up a small amount. Remove the drain plug, using a 3/8" drive rachet. Allow the 4 quarts to drain out. After the ATF drains out, simply re install the drain plug and let the car down. Add 3.5 quarts and crank the engine. Hold the brake and work though all the gears. This ensures that all the fluid works through the system. Leave the engine running and check the fluid level and adjust as needed. You should only have to possibly add the last .5 quart.
To perform a tranny flush yourself, follow this little "How-To" by RoadRunner, Transmission Forum Moderator at CEG.
Before you start put 4 quarts of WATER in a bucket and mark the INSIDE of the bucket with an INDELIBLE INK MARKER, at the top of the water level.
When you get under the car, you will see two lines that go from the transmission to the passenger side of the car. One attaches to the BOTTOM of the radiator, while the other goes to the TOP of the radiator. Follow the line that attaches to the BOTTOM of the radiator back to the transmission. This is where you want to remove the line and then put the end of it into a bucket.
Pour out the water and dry. Now you have a 4 quart measure inside the bucket !
Start the car and let it idle while the bucket fills.
When it gets close to the 4 quart mark, turn off the car, and pour 4 quarts of ATX Oil into the Dipstick Tube.
Take the 4 quarts in your bucket and pour it into the 4 empty ATX Oil bottles.
You'll need to repeat this until the oil coming out of the line starts to resemble the oil you ar pouring into the dipstick tube.
The filter, in the CD4E, is not a serviceable item. By this, I mean that the filter cannot be changed without actually disassembling the transmission. Don't go and get all upset about this! The filter actually works pretty good. The only known problem with the filter, was found back in `98, I believe. It was redesigned by Flitrek to address a fluid flow issue during extreme useage. In other words, when you would drive your car like a mad man - like most of us do on weekends, the fluid was not able to flow properly through the filter. This lead to premature failures of the coast & direct clutches.
Since we are on the topic of ATF, the CD4E is designed to use Mercon. Not Mercon V! This holds across all models years. If you want, you can use synthetic based fluids such as, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF or Amsoil Synthetic ATF. There are of course others out there and I will let you do all that research. I will let you draw your own conclusion in that area on what is best for your CD4E. Just stay with either Mercon or a synthetic variant and you will be fine. And yes, if you want to slowly change over to a syn, by performing the 4 quart drop procedure, you can.
I would also like to address another topic that often comes up with automatic transmissions, in general, quite a lot. Changing of the fluid period! A lot of people think that you should not change your transmission fluid unless you are having problems. This is about as wrong as you can possibly be. Look! ATF is not some miracle fluid that will not break down. When ATF breaks down, it actually becomes abrasive. If you allow this liquid sand paper, if you will, continue to run through your transmission... it will eat away at everything it comes into contact with. Keep your fluid changed on a regular basis, all those parts will continue to be happy for a long time.
If you have purchased a used car, that you are not sure about the level of care that the previous owner car gave the transmission, I would suggest performing the 4 quart drop routine and not flushing the tranny. "Why?", you ask. "But I thought I was suppose to get all that stuff out, if the fluid was in bad condition. I am confused now!"
Well see here is what happens with old ATF, while still floating around in your tranny. The old fluid flows through the tranny, causing all sorts of damage. One of the main problems is scaring. Scaring is where a piece of grit runs through say, the bore of the valve body. When it reaches the piston or valve, it gets caught between the seal and the bore. As the valve or piston continues to work normally, it is also cutting into the bore. Now, with scaring out of the way - As time goes by, this scare will become filled with other particles of grit and trash. This eventually seals whatever leaks might have been caused by the scaring action. Now! This is just one piece of grit, so imagine thousands if not millions upon millions of different examples of this happening throughout an entire trip! It does not take long for your transmission to become riddled with this damage. Well, here's the catch. ATF is naturally very good at cleaning. And if you flush your tranny with 12 quarts of new fluid, it is only a matter of miles before all those scares are cleaned out and you have a hydraulic mess on your hands. Valves and pistons will begin to stick or leak. Line pressure will fluctuate wildly. All sorts of problems. It is not unheard of for someone to flush their tranny, that has not taken very good care of it, and soon after flushing - it dies.
Тюнинг CD4e: http://www.geocities.com/yyz81/cd4e/mods.html
Внешний кулер: http://www.geocities.com/yyz81/cd4e/cooler.html